Restaurant of the Week: Graffiti

Graffiti cuts across all cultures, both as street art and as a new East Village spot that feels smaller than a subway car. Chef/owner Jehangir Mehta was smart to insist on stemless wine glasses; the space is so limited it’s easy to imagine crashes. On a recent Thursday night, diners were asked to double up at tables to stanch the overflow. It made for an intimate experience as we leaned in to pluck at cubes of fragrant green mango paneer ($7) and thinly carved pickled-ginger scallops with a hot dab of candied red chili ($12). Mehta, originally from India and one of the most gracious hosts you’ll ever meet, is famous as a pastry chef (Aix, Jean Georges) but his global bistro is decidedly savory.

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