"Minor Miracles": On the hunt for great food in intimate settings

Everybody loves this tiny, wonderful place, unless you insist on an ample, airy interior. Like Iacopo Falai, pastry chef Jehangir Mehta (who has worked at Jean-Georges and beyond) wanted to venture into savories; the restaurant’s title implies haphazard self-expression, but the boldly flavored dishes are nearly all very well thought out and yummy: chili pork dumplings with grapefruit confit; an admirable burger with chipotle mayonnaise and excellent potatoes; braised pork bun; eggplant wrap.

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